Ishinca, Tocllaraju & Huascaran


12D / 11N

Tipo de tour


Altitud del tour


Tamaño de grupo

2 a 10 personas.

Huascarán is the largest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca. It is also the fourth highest in the western hemisphere. As a result, the Huascarán expedition is not for the faint-hearted. If you’re looking to attempt to conquer Peru’s largest mountain you’ll need a high level of fitness, mental toughness, and experience. If you are one of the few who can accomplish mastering the summit, the rewards are clear. Huascarán offers a panoramic view of the wondrous Cordillera Blanca. You’ll have a feeling of true accomplishment at overcoming a mountain so few can. After a few days of acclimatizing around Huaraz, your climbing begins in the Ishinca Valley. At 5,530m Ishinca’s northwest face serves as a perfect non-technical warm-up climb. Following this you will take on the ascent of neighbouring Tocllaraju’s northwest ridge. This climb will help you gain further acclimatisation at altitude. Furthermore, it will test your mountaineering skills on more exposed and technically challenging terrain. After you have conquered these two peaks, you will have a rest day to recover before climbing Huascaran. The Huascarán expedition is unique amongst trips in the Cordillera Blanca in that it requires several high camps. These help you acclimatize along the way and give you the best chance of reaching the summit. Firstly, you’ll journey from the town of Musho up to the base camp with the assistance of pack animals. Then, it’s onward to your first glacier climb at 5,100m. After that, you’ll go through the ‘throat’ of the mountain. This will lead you to the final camp on the mountain. The 6,000m camp is situated in the col between the northern and southern summit. Two summit days are permitted to allow for inclement weather and tired climbers. However, the views from the summit of the Huascarán expedition will keep you energized and focused!

Trip Information of Ishinca.

Grade: PD
Length: 3 Days
Route: NE ridge (up) SE (down)
Best Season: May – September

Trip Information of Tocllaraju.

Grade: AD
Length:  4 Dyas
Route:  W Ridge
Best Season: Mid May – September

Trip Information of Huascaran.

Grade: AD
Length: 6 Days
Route: NW Face
Best Season: Mid June – August

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Tour Program


Day 01
Huaraz 3100m / Ishinca base camp 4350m
After your breakfast our private transfer pick you up to Pashpa village for about 1 hour driving then we start to walk for about 4 hours till the base camp, all the way up is almost flat. Walking Time: 4 hours
Day 02
Summit Day! Your first alpine start - 2:00am waking and leaving by 3:00am. You'll pick your way through the delicate Andean tundra and gain the glacier. Once on the glacier, wind your way through some impressive crevasses and up to the high saddle, then follow a final ridge to the very top.
Day 03
Taking your essentials, you'll leave for the moraine camp of your final mountain, Tocllaraju. It usually takes 3 to 4 hours to reach the camp at 5000 meters. Enjoy an unforgettable dinner while mesmerized by Tocllaraju’s impressive west face. Get to sleep early for the next day climb.
Day 04
An early start today... wake at 12:00 midnight and after a light breakfast depart for the summit by around 2:00am. You'll work your way across the saddle and begin the classic assent up Toclla's north ridge. Things get steeper as you climb, with two sections of 50- 55 degree snow and/or ice. Return to high camp typically around 2:00pm and after a rest and some warm food; continue back down to base camp for dinner and sleep.
Day 05
BASE CAMP 4350m / HUARAZ 3100m
Sleep in at last and wake to a delicious breakfast before packing up camp and loading the donkeys for the return to Huaraz. Once there, you'll check into your hotel for a nice shower and some rest. Enjoy a good dinner in town and start to get psyched for the final objective - Huascaran!
Day 06
Rest day in Huaraz. Options to go biking, rock climbing, or just hang out and check your email!
Day 07
Leave for the town of Musho around 8 am after picking up fresh supplies. Load the donkeys and hike to the base camp of Huascaran.
Day 08
BASE CAMP 4300m / CAMP ONE 5300m
To continue with our itineraries, we'll start rock climbing until the moraine (4900m), with the help of the porters, and we will rest join to glacier, after we prepare to walk on the glacier until the camp 1 (5200m) overnight camping in the glacier. Time 3 to 4 hours.
Day 10
SECOND CAMP 6000m / SUMMIT 6768 m/ SECOND TWO 6000m
SUMMIT DAY! Again you'll start early, leaving camp around 2:00am for the summit ascent, arriving back at camp around 2:00pm. After a break and some warm food, you'll continue the descent to Camp One
Day 11
We'll start walking down early to the mountain hut always watching up the avalanches; it will take us for about 5 hours going down. Overnight mountain hut Time 5 to 6 hours
Day 12
DAY 12 BASE CAMP 4300m / HUARAZ 3100m
Continue to descend to the trail head and return to Huaraz. Once there, you'll check into your hotel for quite possibly the best shower of your life. Dinner that night is a celebration banquet, a traditional Pachamanca, held in an even more traditional Peruvian hut.

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