Pisco, Yanapaccha & Chopicalqui

Duración

10D / 9N

Tipo de tour

Mountaineering

Altitud del tour

5460m

Tamaño de grupo

2 a 10 personas.

This is an exciting three climb challenge for strong clients who are well acclimatised to the altitude and who have some previous climbing experience, culminating in tackling 6354m Chopicalqui. All the peaks are conveniently accessed from the Demanda Valley, location of the famous twin lakes of LLanganuco. Previous experience of climbing on steep hard ice is highly recommended.

The peaks:

PISCO 5753m (18875ft)

Trip Information of pisco

Grade: PD – Moderate snow climbs – Physically hard

Length: 3 Days

Route:  W Ridge

Season: May – September

Pisco is a suitable climb for beginner climbers but is also a rewarding climb for experienced climbers and it is an ideal preparation peak for the demanding Chopicalqui climb, providing extra acclimatisation and strength. Most years, there is no technical climbing on Pisco but there can be short steep sections, some hard ice to negotiate or a crevasse to navigate around.

YANAPACCHA 5460m (17913ft)

Trip Information f Yanapaccha

Grade: AD- / some steep climbing

Length: 2 Days

Route:  W face

Season: May – September

Yanapaccha is located very close to popular Pisco but is much less known and less frequented by climbers than Pisco. It is a moderately difficult climb with some steep sections and a final slope of up to 65 deg. to the summit. Yanapaccha is a superb preparation peak for more technical & physically demanding climbing on Chopicalqui.

CHOPICALQUI 6354m (20847ft)

Trip Information of Chopicalqui

Grade: AD/ Difficult, long serious climbs.

Length: 4 Days

Route: SW Ridge

Season:  Mid may – September

Chopicalqui, at 6354m, is sometimes referred to as the “third peak of Huascarán”. It is a demanding peak to climb, with sections of steep & technical climbing, crevasses to negotiate around and route finding necessary. Previous experience of climbing on steep hard ice is highly recommended, and a high standard of fitness and strength is also necessary. Chopicalqui is NOT a suitable peak for beginner climbers.

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Tour Program

Itinerary

Day 01
HUARAZ 3100m / CEBOLLAPAMPA 3900m / BASE CAMP 4700m
With a private bus transfer to Cebollapampa (3900 masl.) 3 hours approx., where we will meet our donkeys and donkey drivers to transport our mountain equipment, well start going-up for about 3 hours to get the Base camp 4700m. Time 2 to 3 hrs.
Day 02
BASE CAMP 47000m / SUMMIT 5752m / BASE CAMP 4700m
Alpine start! Today is summit day. Wake up at 12:00 am and depart around 1 am for the summit. Cross the moraine and wind your way to the glacier first, then make your way to the saddle where you are sure to see the Huandoys a glow in the sunrise. A beautiful ridge climbs to the summit where spectacular views of some of the Cordillera's highest peaks abound. Afterwards you'll descend to the base camp for a big dinner. Time: 10 to 11 hours
Day 03
BASE CAMP 4700m / CEBOLLAPAMPA 3900m / TRANSFER TO KM42 4600m/ YANAPACCHA MORAINE CAMP 4900m
We have to decent to Cebollapampa for about 2 hours to get our bus to be transferred to kilometer 42. Where we start hike to yanapapaccha moraine camp. Walking time 5 hours.
Day 04
MORAINE CAMP 4900m/ YANAPACCAHA SUMMIT 5460M / MORAINE CAMP 4900M
This day we will have breakfast early around 230:00 hours, then around 3.00 am we will start climbing, 30 minutes over the rocky path to get the snow, after that we will climb up to the summit for about 3 – 4 hours over (5460m/17908ft), on the way up we will find two pitches of snow climbing max. 50 degres and rappel on the way down.  On the summit we will enjoy the nice mountain views around like Chacraraju, Pisco, Huascaran, Chopicalqui, Contrahiervas, Huandoys, etc.; after that we will start descending to the Moraine Camp for about 3 hours, lunch at the Camp, free afternoon and dinner, sleep on the Moraine Camp. Meal includes (breakfast, box lunch and dinner) Climbing time: 7 to 8 hours (round trip)
Day 05
MORAINE CAMP 4900M / 42 KILOMETERS 4600M / TRANSFER TO CHOPICALQUI TRAIL HEAD 4000M/ TREK TO CHOPICALQUI BASE CAM 4200M
After breakfast, we will descend to 42 kilometer, there our private car will be waiting for us and immediately we drive back to curva de chopicalqui, after that we walk to chopicalqui base camp. Meal includes (breakfast and box lunch, reception and dinner) Walking time: 4 hours
Day 06
CHOPICALQUI BASE CAMP - REST DAY
Rest day.
Day 07
BASE CAMP 4200m / MORRAINE CAMP 4800M
We start after breakfast cross and climb up to the moraine camp on the way up we can appreciate the two Huascaran peaks overnight camping. Time: 4 hours.
Day 08
MORRAINE CAMP 4800m / HIGH CAMP 5400m
This day we go to high camp. First climbing on moraine rock to the glacier. Then on snow slopes of varying degrees in steepness and negotiating around several crevasses to a High Camp on the snow 5380m. 5 to 6 hours. Time: 4 hours
Day 09
HIGH CAMP 5400m / SUMMIT 6350 m / MORRAINE CAMP 4800m
Climb to the summit. There are some seracs and crevasses to avoid and several sections of steep and technical climbing. Descend back to High Camp or Morena Camp if you are feeling strong. 11 to 12 hours for the day. Climbing Time. 11 to 12 hours
Day 10
MORRAINE CAMP 5800 m / HUARAZ 31OOm
Return and trek out to Huaraz.

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