PISCO – ALPAMAYO & ARTESONRAJU MOUNTAIN

Duración

14D / 13N

Tipo de tour

Mountaineering

Altitud del tour

6025 m

Tamaño de grupo

2 a 10 personas.

Artesonraju. The North Ridge of the mountain has been made famous by Paramount Picture’s logo, Artesonraju´s North Ridge (alpine D) is one of the most classic routes on the range, and makes for a worth while climb if you´re in the Santa Cruz valley for Alpamayo or Quitaraju. From moraine camp, a 20 minute walk leads you to the entrance of the glacier. Glacier itself varies a lot from year to year, but expect to encounter traga-hombres and moderate steep ice from the beginning. Glacier is usually entered from the right, a long traverse leads you to a short and steep, 80 degree step. From there traverse diagonally to the right at about 60 degrees, cross some crevasses, another traverse to the left and finally, gain the 240 m wall at about 70 degrees snow and ice. 4 pitches and you reach the summit ridge, and about 30 minutes on exposed ridge lead you tot he summit. Descend the same route.
Alpamayo. It is the gem of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. Ever since it was first climbed in 1951, alpinists have been flocking to attempt its fluted Southwest Face. Many fledgling high altitude climbers consider this peak a culmination of their early climbing careers. It has often been named by climbers, magazines, and trekkers, “the most beautiful mountain in the world”. Alpamayo deserves these accolades. Summit day consists of 1,500 feet (450 meters) of perfect two-tooled ice and neve (styrofoam-like snow) climbing on a flawless fluted face. You know you are close to reaching the top when you begin to see light through the face from the other side. And on a good year, you can actually top out on the summit ridge, with one foot dangling down each of its almost vertical faces. Getting to this point requires hard work and solid mountaineering and ice climbing skills. Before reaching the famed summit face we must approach over 25 kilometers (15+ miles), place two lower camps, and carry heavy packs filled with climbing equipment and food over 4,000 feet (1,219 meters) of moraine, scree, and steep glaciated terrain.

Trip Information of Artesonraju
Grade: D / difficult snow and ice climbing
Length: 5/6 Days
Route: E / NE
Season:  June – August

Trip Information of Alpamayo
Grade: D/ difficult snow and ice climbing
Length: 6/7 Days
Route: SW – French Direct
Season:  June – September

Trip Information of pisco 5 753m (18875ft)
Grade: PD – Moderate snow climbs – Physically hard
Length: 3 Days
Route:  W Ridge
Season: May – September

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Tour Program

Itinerary

Day 01
HUARAZ 3100m / CEBOLLAPAMPA 3900m / BASE CAMP 4700m.
With a private bus transfer to Cebollapampa (3900 masl.) 3 hours approx., where we will meet our donkeys and donkey drivers to transport our mountain equipment, well start going-up for about 3 hours to get the Base camp 4700m. Time 2 to 3 hrs.
Day 02
BASE CAMP 47000m / SUMMIT 5752m / BASE CAMP 4700m.
Alpine start! Today is summit day. Wake up at 12:00 am and depart around 1 am for the summit. Cross the moraine and wind your way to the glacier first, then make your way to the saddle where you are sure to see the Huandoys a glow in the sunrise. A beautiful ridge climbs to the summit where spectacular views of some of the Cordillera's highest peaks abound. Afterwards you'll descend to the base camp for a big dinner. Time: 10 to 11 hours
Day 03
BASE CAMP 4700M/ CEBOLLAPAMPA 3900M/ HUARAZ 3100M
Descend to the trailhead where your transport will be waiting. Return to Huaraz about 2 pm for showers.
Day 04
REST DAY HUARAZ
Day 05
HUARAZ 3100M / CASHAPAMPA VILLAGE 2900M / LLAMACORRAL CAMP 3780 M
We will pick you up in our private transport and leave Huaraz to be transferred to Cashapampa after 2 hours by car; here we will meet our donkey drivers, then we will start hiking by narrow valley, we will trek going to the first camp Place Llamacorral where we set up our first camp. Meal includes (L,D). Walking time: 4 to 5 hours.
Day 06
LLAMACORRAL 3780M / ALPAMAYO BASE CAMP 4350M
We start trekking, after our breakfast, passing the blue-green color lake called Jatun Cocha, in 4 hours we have the Base Camp Arhuaycocha where we will start to prepare our climbing equipment for the next day. Meal includes (B,L,D). Walking time: 4 to 5 hours
Day 07
BASE CAMP 4350M. / MORAINE 5900M / HIGH CAMP 5300M
After breakfast, We will climb the moraine rocky trail to get the glacier, We will walk the rocky area for about 3 hours and getting over 5000m, then we will start using our climbing gear, and start climbing for about 3 hours to get the col at 5350m to finally go down a little for a half hour to the high camp 5300m. Meal includes (B,L,D). Walking and climbing time: 6 to 7 hours
Day 08
HIGH CAMP 5300M / ALPAMAYO SUMMIT 5947M / HIGH CAMP 5300M / APAMAYO BASE CAMP 4350M
After an early breakfast, we will start walking in the snow using headlamps, in 1-hour approx. we will get the base of the wall, known as the French route. The inclination goes from approx. 45º to 80º, then we will start climbing the wall, and after 2 or 3 hours climbing, we will succeed the summit, where we will have impressionist white Mountain peaks. We go down to high Camp and After lunch, we will take the same route to go back to the Base Camp. The ascent takes 4-5 hours, while the descent takes about 2-3 hours. If participants are tired, we can stay one more night in High Camp. If everyone feels fine, which is usual, we descend to Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m). Meal includes (B,L,D). Walking time in descent to base camp: 4 to hours
Day 09
RESERVATION DAY
Reservation day in case of bad weather or other inconvenience. Meal includes (B,L,D).
Day 10
BASE CAMP ALPAMAYO 4300M / BASE CAMP ARTESONRAJU 4200M
A short day of walking. After breakfast we head towards the base camp of Artesonraju. Walk from 1 to 1:30 hours. day of rest and preparation for the Artesonraju
Day 11
BASE CAMP 4200m / MORAINE CAMP
From here we again use the help of our high altitude porters as we move to Artesonraju Moraine Camp. Trekkers need to help carry their personal expedition equipment because the hilly nature of the moraine makes the climb more demanding. We rise through the shrubs and trees for 4-5 hours along the moraine crest, which is sometimes slippery and steep. Artesonraju Moraine Camp. Walking time: 4 to 5 hours
Day 12
MORAINE CAMP / SUMMIT 6025M / BASE CAMP 4200M.
Summit day! The route we are climbing today is the North Ridge via the northeast spur. We climb steep slopes to the left of the ridge, avoiding the crevasses and seracs. The slope of the wall is from 40-60 degrees; the conditions can vary a lot from one year to the next. The ascent is approximately 8-9 hours. At the summit you will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca! The neighboring peaks of Huascaran North and South, Huandoys, Santa Cruz, Caraz, and many more. After a brief rest and picture-taking at the summit, we return to Moraine Camp with some sections done via rappel. The descent will take about 3-4 hours. If participants are tired, we can stay another night at Moraine Camp. If everyone feels fine, we usually drop down to Artesonraju Base Camp. Climbing time. 10 hours
Day 13
RESERVATION DAY
Day 14
BASE CAMP 4200 / CASHAPAMPA 2900M / HUARAZ 3100M
This day we will go back walking down hill along the Santa Cruz valley, until Cashapampa, where our private transfer wait for us to drive to Huaraz. Walking time: 6 to 7 hour Driving time: 2 hours

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