Yanapaccha & Alpamayo

Duración

8D / 7N

Tipo de tour

Mountaineering

Altitud del tour

5460m

Tamaño de grupo

2 a 10 personas.

It is the gem of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. Ever since it was first climbed in 1951, alpinists have been flocking to attempt its fluted Southwest Face. Many fledgling high altitude climbers consider this peak a culmination of their early climbing careers. It has often been named by climbers, magazines, and trekkers, “the most beautiful mountain in the world”. Alpamayo deserves these accolades. Summit day consists of 1,500 feet (450 meters) of perfect two-tooled ice and neve (styrofoam-like snow) climbing on a flawless fluted face. You know you are close to reaching the top when you begin to see light through the face from the other side. And on a good year, you can actually top out on the summit ridge, with one foot dangling down each of its almost vertical faces. Getting to this point requires hard work and solid mountaineering and ice climbing skills. Before reaching the famed summit face we must approach over 25 kilometers (15+ miles), place two lower camps, and carry heavy packs filled with climbing equipment and food over 4,000 feet (1,219 meters) of moraine, scree, and steep glaciated terrain.

Trip Information of Alpamayo

Grade: D/ difficult snow and ice climbing

Length: 6/7 Days

Route: SW – French Direct

Season:  June – August

Trip Information of Yanapaccha

Grade: AD- / some steep climbing

Length: 2 Days

Route:  W face

Season: May – September

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Tour Program

Itinerary

Day 01
Huaraz / 42 kilometer 4600m / Yanapaccha moraine camp 4800m
This day we take a private car and drive to kilometer 42, it takes 3 hours driving passing through the two beautiful lakes of Llanganuco valley after getting off the car, we start to walk to the moraine camp. On the all the way up we can appreciate beautiful mountains of the cordillera Blanca. Walking time: 2 to 3 hours
Day 02
MORAINE CAMP 4800m/ YANAPACCAHA SUMMIT 5460m/ 42 KILOMETER 4600m / HUARAZ
We will start to climb early in the morning, crossing the rocky path for about 30 minutes. After that we will climb up the slope with in the last part we will find 3 pitches of snow climbing up to the summit 55 degrees, where we will enjoy the nice Mountain View. after that we will start descend to the Moraine Camp, lunch at the Camp, in the  afternoon we trek out to 42 kilometer where our private car wait for us to take us to Huaraz. Climbing Time: 8 to 9 hours (round trip)
Day 03
HUARAZ 3100m / CASHAPAMPA VILLAGE 2900m /LLAMACORRAL CAMP 3780m
We will pick you up in our private transport and leave Huaraz to be transferred to Cashapampa after 2 hours by car; here we will meet our donkey drivers, then we will start hiking by narrow valley, we will trek going to the first camp Place Llamacorral where we set up our first camp. Walking time: 4 to 5 hours.
Day 04
LLAMACORRAL 3780m/ ALPAMAYO BASE CAMP 4350m
We start trekking, after our breakfast, passing the blue-green color lake called Jatun Cocha, in 4 hours we have the Base Camp Arhuaycocha where we will start to prepare our climbing equipment for the next day. Walking time: 4 to 5 hours
Day 05
BASE CAMP 4350m/ MORAINE 5900m / HIGH CAMP 5300m
After breakfast, We will climb the moraine rocky trail to get the glacier, We will walk the rocky area for about 3 hours and getting over 5000m, then we will start using our climbing gear, and start climbing for about 3 hours to get the col at 5350m to finally go down a little for a half hour to the high camp 5300m Walking and climbing time: 6 to 7 hours
Day 06
HIGH CAMP 5300m /ALPAMAYO SUMMIT 5947m / HIGH CAMP 5300m
After an early breakfast, we will start climbing using headlamps, and after 1-hour approx. walking in the snow, we will get the base of the wall, known as the French route. The inclination goes from approx. 45º to 80º, then we will start climbing the wall, and after 2 or 3 hours climbing, we will succeed the summit, where we will have impressionist white Mountain peaks. We go down to high Camp for overnight. Climbing time: 7 to 8 hours (round trip)
Day 07
HIGH CAMP 5300m / APAMAYO BASE CAMP 4350m
After breakfast in the glacier, we will take the same route to go back to the Base Camp Walking time: 4 to 5 hours
Day 08
BASE CAMP 5300m / CASHAPAMPA VILLAGE 2900m / HUARAZ 3100m
This day we will go back walking down hill along the Santa Cruz valley, until Cashapampa, where our private transfer wait for us to drive to Huaraz. Meal includes (breakfast, lunch,). Walking time: 6 to 7 hour Driving time: 2 hours

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